The clothes a man wears sends a message. They project an image. Here are some tips for wardrobe planning using the seasons color system. Wardrobe planning using the color palette that most suits you is an efficient way to use finite resources and avoid mistakes while meeting clothing needs. Of course, in the process you apply the other elements of design: line, texture, and fabrics.
Overview of Seasonal Color Palettes:
Seasonal color palettes are based on the color systems of Prang and Munsell. If you’ve never had your colors done and don’t know your seasonal palette, the following are clues to each season. There are classic types plus people that are difficult to classify. If you are the latter, you might want to have a professional consultant do your colors. As you can see in the following profiles, skin tone, eyes, and hair are partial clues:
Spring- a peaches and cream complexion; perhaps blond hair; greenish eyes (e.g. Jimmy Carter)
Summer- look good in pastels; steel or grey-blue eyes; toe head or fair, white hair as a child (e.g. the late John Ritter)
Winter- dark hair; dark eyes with violet ring; look good in black and white (e.g. Burt Reynolds)
Autumn- definitely green eyes and auburn hair (e.g. Woody Allen)
Color Rating:
The following is a color key that can be used:
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Not by face (2)
Needs contrast (2+)
Good (3)
Very good (3+)
Excellent (4)
Classes of Working Men:
The following is a suggested wardrobe inventory for four classes of working men:
Executive- wears a suit every day; needs to pay attention to his casual wardrobe; often lacking in something to wear between jeans and suits. Suggestion: Business- 6 suits (three solid), 12 shirts, 10-15 ties; Casual- 1-2 sport coat(s), 1-2 slack(s), 4 casual shirts.
Businessman- wears suit or sportcoat. Suggestion: Business- 3 suits (two solid), 3 sport coats, 3 pairs of slacks, 12 shirts, 10 ties; Casual- 2 pairs of slacks, 4 casual shirts.
Casual- wears casual clothes every day. Non-Casual- 1 suit in basic neutral solid, 2 sports coats, 6 shirts, 6-8 ties; Casual- 6 pairs of slacks; Casual- 6 pairs of slacks (3-4 washable). 12 casual shirts.
Uniform- wears a uniform daily. For work- 5-7 work uniforms; Non-casual- 1 solid color suit in basic neutral color, 2 dress slacks; Casual- 1-2 pair clean,pressed jeans, 2 shirts (dress or oxford buttondown, 2 casual slacks, 4 casual shirts.
Investment Wardrobe for a Summer Man
The palette of the summer male is one of harmonious blend of tones, enhanced by soft contrast and subtle color combinations. Darker colours are grayed (muted) to avoid an overpowering harsh effect on the natural coloring. The palette lends itself to traditional business colors; blue-gray is the best. Any pastel shade works well in a business shirt, with a soft white shirt being the most versatile.
The following is a suggested investment wardrobe for dress wear:
Suit- Gray (blue gray 2+ to 3), French Navy (3 to 3+), Dark Cocoa Brown (3+)
Shirts- Gardenia White (3), Powder Blue (2+ to 3), Rose Beige (3), Pale Strawberry Pink (3 to 3+), Lavender (2+ to 3)
Slacks- French Navy (3 to 3+), Dove Gray (2+ to 3), Cocoa Brown (3+), Gray (2+ to 3)
Ties- French Navy (3 to 3+), Deep Rose (3 to 4), Burgundy (3 to 4), Rose Pink as accent color (3+ to 4)
Sweater- Azalea Red (3+ to 4), Burgundy (3 to 4), Dove Gray (2+ to 3)
Topcoat- Navy, Gray (2+ to 3)
Trenchcoat- Rose Beige (3)
Jacket- Burgundy Flannel (3 to 4), Blue Gray Glen Plaid
The following is a suggested investment wardrobe for casual wear:
Read more at Suite101: Male Wardrobe Planning and Seasons Color System | Suite101.com http://www.suite101.com/content/male-wardrobe-planning-and-seasons-color-system-a380433#ixzz1QuXS0WMC
Suit- Gray Blue sportcoat (2+ to 3), French Navy Blazer (3 to 3+), Soft tweed (Gray Blue 2+ to 3)
Shirts- French Blue (2+ to 3), American Beauty Red (3 to 3+), Emerald Green (3 to 4), Sea Green (2+)
Slacks- French Navy (3 to 3+), Burgundy (3 to 4)
Sweater- Emerald Green (3 to 4), Mauve (3+ to 4), French Navy (3 to 3+)
Sportswear- Emerald Green (3 to 4), Watermellon Red (4), Cadet Blue (2+ to 3), Raspberry Sherbert (4)
Investment Wardrobe for a Winter Man
The winter man looks best in sharp contrast and clear, pure clean colors, with a blue undertone. He should never wear anything muted (softened or dulled with gray) especially in ties. Winters have the easiest time shopping for business clothes. Black, gray and navy all look good. The best business shirt is white, but icy colors in the palette can add interest and leeway but maintain a conservative style. The best ties come from the blue-red tones.
The following is a suggested investment wardrobe for dress wear:
Suits- Navy Semisolid (3+ to 4), Charcoal Gray three piece solid (3+), Black (4)
Shirts- White (pure chalk white- 3), Icy Pink (2+), Icy Blue (avoid usual blue business shirt- 2+), Icy Gray (2+)
Slacks- Charcoal Gray wool blend or wool in cold weather (3+) and Taupe (2 to 2+) or navy (3+ to 4) cotton polyester blend in warm weather
Ties- Royal Blue (4) or Ruby Red (3 to 4) solid, Navy (3+ to 4) or Ruby Red (3 to 4) accented patterned, Gray-blue/red accented striped, Burgundy (3 to 4)
Sweaters- Burgundy (3 to 4), navy (3+ to 4), Ruby Red (3 to 4)
Topcoat- Navy or Gray
Trenchcoat- Navy or Gray (taupe difficult to find, avoid tan)
Jacket- Navy, Dark Hot Blue in summertime (3+ to 4)
The following is a suggested investment wardrobe for casual wear:
Suits- Navy blazer (3+ to 4), Gray/Black Herringbone
Shirts- Pure White Oxford, Whute with Blue stripes, White with gray stripes, Icy Pink (2+)
Slacks- Navy (3+ to 4), Taupe (2 to 2+), Gray
Sweaters- Taupe (2 to 2+), Lemon Yellow (2+), Palette Green (2+ to 3), Dark Hot Blue (3+ to 4)
Sportswear- Emerald Green (3 to 4), Burgundy, Icy Pink (2+), Red (3 to 4)
Investment Wardrobe for a Spring Man
The palette of a spring man is yellow-based tones that are warm, energetic, and clear. Strive for medium dark to light shades. Avoid muted (grayed or brownish) tones in clothing; all the colors should be clear.
The following is a suggested investment wardrobe for dress wear:
Suits- Bright Navy (3+ to 4), Milk Chocolate (2+ to 3), Dove Gray (2 to 2+)
Shirts- Ivory (3 to 3+), Light Peach (2+ to 3), Daffodil Yellow (2+)
Slacks- Milk Chocolate ((2+ to 3), Bright Navy (3+ to4), Dove Gray (2 to 2+)
Ties- Poppy Red (3+ to 4), Bright Navy (3+ to 4), medium Periwinkle Blue (3+ to 4)
Sweaters- Bright Navy (3+ to 4), Poppy Red (3+ to 4)
Topcoat- Bright Navy (3+ to 4), Milk Chocolate Brown (2+ to 3)
Trenchcoat- Light Clear Beige (2+ to 3), Bright Navy (3+ to 4)
Jacket- Golden Bronze (3+ to 4), Tan
The following is a suggested investment wardrobe for casual wear:
Suits- camel (3 to 3+), Golden Bronze (3+ to 4), Gray Navy tweed
Shirts- Light Peach (2+ to 3), Tangerine (2+ to 3)
Slacks- Warm Beige (2+ to 3), Golden Bronze (3+ to 4), Ivory (3 to 3+)
Sweaters- Vivid Blue (4), Grass Green (3 to 3+), Coral (3+ to 4)
Investment Wardrobe for an Autumn Man
The autumn man drresses best in colors with warm golden undertones. When shopping, think warm, rich, golden and earthy tones. Avoid pure white, black and gray.
Although the colors are not the typical corporate/businessman look, careful shopping can build a wardrobe that blends the palette. Choose grayed browns to achieve the look of businessman’s gray or subtle business tweeds. Remember to keep your tie (see image below) and shirt in your season.
The following is a suggested investment wardrobe for dress wear:
Suits- Chocolate Brown (4), Coffee (lots of gray 3 to 3+), Marine Navy (very browned navy)
Shirts- Oyster White (lots of gray 3 to 3+), Apricot (2+ to 3), Sun Yellow (2+ to 3)
Slacks- Dark Chocolate Brown (4), Coffee (lots of gray 3 to 3+), Golden Beige (with lots of gray 3 to 3+)
Ties- Tomato Red (3+ to 4), Brick Red (4), Rust (3+ to 4), Darker Greens
Sweaters- Forest Green (4), Bronze (2+ to3), Rust (3+ to 4)
Topcoat- Tan/Khaki
Trenchcoat- Tan/Khaki
Jacket- Olive Green (3+ to 4), Coffee
The following is a suggested investment wardrobe for casual wear:
Suits- Khaki/Tan, Brown/green tweeds, Brown leather
Shirts- Jade Green (2+ to 3), Teal Blue (4), Rust (3+ to 4), Poppy Red
Slacks- Coffee (lots of gray 3 to 3+), Golden Beige (with lots of gray 3 to 3+), Bronze (2+ to 3)
Sweaters- Apricot (2+ to 3),Teal Blue (4), Moss Green 3+ to 4), Mustard (3 to 3+)
Menswear Trends:
It is not always wise to dress according to the latest trends but if you are so inclined, here is a selection of tips from Imogen Fox and Simon Chilvers of the Guardian:
Aviator flying jacket- but keep it minimal
Okay to let your shirt hang out; but perhaps not at work
Roland Mouret label (MR for men)
A simple overcoat has the most off-catwalk potential
source: suite101
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